Here is Part 2 of this Awesome Ranch Style Wood and Pipe Dining Table! In case you missed Part 1, here is a link 🙂 You will probably notice variations in the color on these pictures. I have built 3 of these using old wood from here on the Ranch, so they are naturally different colors. I can’t get enough of these rustic dining tables! If you build one, I’d love to see how yours turns out!
Okay, let’s get busy! Here are the cuts you’ll need for the table base-
6-2″x6″ @ 39″– Feet and Top Supports
4-2″x6″ @ 23 1/2″– Legs
1-2″x6″ @ 72 3/4″– Top Center Support- I recommend measuring for this before you cut it, once you attach the pipe- as it needed to be different for both tables due to the old wood being different sizes.
4-2″x3″ @ appx. 14 1/4″- Ends cut at 45 degree angles– ends not parallel and measured long point to long point. Support for top.
2-2″x6″ @ appx. 14 1/4″ Ends cut at 45 degree angles– ends not parallel and measured long point to long point. Support for top.
Please measure and cut to fit the following trim pieces-
4-1″x3″ @ appx. 7″ Ends cut at 45 degree angles- ends not parallel and measured long point to long point. Measure and cut to fit. Support for top.
4-1″x3″ @ appx. 5″ Ends cut at 45 degree angles– ends not parallel and measured long point to long point. Measure and cut to fit. Support for top.
1″ Spade bit
6-2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
Finish Nails
Wood Glue
2-3/4″ end caps
2-3/4″ flanges
1- 3/4″ Pipe @ 82″- each end threaded 5″. *A word about the pipe- I bought an 8′ piece of pipe from Home Depot, which I couldn’t find online, so the link is for a 10′ piece. You will have extra, but it was cheaper to buy the whole pipe as opposed to purchasing by the foot. Plus, I think that scrap piece is going to make a great end table project in the future 😉
I had the guys at Home Depot cut the pipe for me, then thread the ends. They weren’t super excited about this- 5″ is a lot of threading. It worked well the first time, but the second time the end crushed while they were threading it. I ended up having the second pipe re-cut and finished at the local welding shop, and they had no problem. So, I don’t want to discourage you on this project, but be prepared for some shock at your request 😉 I also recommend making sure your flanges will screw on and off the pipe before you leave the store. I LOVE this Ridgid pipe tool!! When you see this bad boy, you know you’re in the right spot 😉
Okay, let’s build the base!
We’ll build the legs first. Take your 4- 2″x6″ @23 1/2″. We are going to make 2 sets of 2 boards sandwiched together. Since I used old wood for this, I ran the non-showing sides through the planer so they’d join flush. 
Add plenty of wood glue, and join them together using 2 1/2″ deck screws. I put the screws in on the side that will be facing in. So, choose the best looking of the two boards you’re joining, and screw from the other side. Here are the 2 sets of legs-
Next, we’re going to drill the holes that the pipe will come through. Find the center of each set of legs. Attach a 1″ spade bit to your drill or impact, and drill through the center of each set of legs.
Now, set your legs aside. And we’ll prep the boards for the next step.
Take 4 of your 39″- 2″x6″ boards. We are going to trim the ends of the top feet boards and the bottom side of the top support boards at an angle to make them pretty. Set your miter saw at a 30 degree bevel and trim each end of 4- 39″ boards. You don’t want to take any length off the boards- just adding decoration. Hopefully the pics help explain this 😉
Now, grab those legs, and we’ll attach the feet. I took pics before I assembled and did the angle cuts, but each set of legs will sit like this on a stack of 2 footer boards-
We are going to add the footer boards 1 at a time though, to keep the screws hidden. Here’s where I dropped the ball getting good pics- and I am sorry! I know you’re smart, though, and can figure this out 🙂
Take 1 leg set, and one of the 39″ boards that you cut the pretty angles on. You want to center and attach them from the underside using wood glue and 3″ deck screws into the legs- making sure that the pretty angle will be showing when everything is right side up.
Now, you’ll attach another (non-angled) 39″ board to the bottom of that one, using wood glue and this time use 2 1/2″ deck screws. You can add screws all along this bottom piece to secure everything well- just make sure you are using 2 1/2″ screws now so they don’t come through the feet.
Repeat this again with your other set of legs and feet. Again, sorry for my super lame lack of pics here. Maybe I need to build a third table 😉
Now, we’ll add the pipe! Grab those two leg/foot assemblies, and all the pipe components. First, screw the flanges onto the pipe with the flat end facing out. Don’t get it tight, we’ve got plenty of threading for wiggle room here. The barn wood we used had varying thicknesses, so both tables were different. Stick the pipe through the 1″ hole you drilled in your leg (screws facing in), and cap the end. Do this on both sides, with a leg/foot assembly on each end of the pipe. We’ll tighten everything up after assembling and attaching the “I” piece we’re about to make.
Now, take your final 2- 39″ boards. These should have the angle cut on them. And take your 2″x6″ @ 72 3/4″ Top Support board. Go ahead and center your 39″ boards on top of the legs, with the angles facing down- just like you did with the feet. Now, measure the distance between the insides of those top 39″ boards to make sure the 72 3/4″ distance is right, and adjust if necessary. The long support board is going in between those two 39″ boards to create an “I” piece. You’ll need to drill 3 pocket holes on each end of this 72 3/4″ board. Make them 1 1/2″ pocket holes.
Now, set these remaining 39″ boards on your work table and make an “I” with these 3 boards, with the 72 3/4″ board being the long center, and attach with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws into the center of each 39″ board. You’ll want those pretty angles on the 39″ boards facing down when attaching pocket hole screws. *Pocket holes facing up, angled cuts facing down.
Once you’ve assembled the “I”, set it on top of your leg assemblies and adjust everything how you like it. Loosen or tighten the flanges on the pipe as needed to get your legs centered on the ends. Then, add some wood glue and attach the “I” piece from the top, screwing down into the legs with 3″ deck screws.
Please excuse the incredibly messy shop 😉
Now, you can tighten up your flanges and end caps, and we’ll add support pieces.
Grab your 14 1/4″ -2″x6″ and 2″x3″ boards. These angles will be a bit different than the ones we did before, so please refer to the pics. Last time we angled the saw blade, this time we’re rotating the saw. They need to be cut with ends at 45 degrees, measured long point to long point, like this- 
It’s best to stain these before attaching, so go ahead and do that now.I stained them with my fave Dark Walnut. While they dry, you can cut your trim pieces.
Once these are dry, you can attach them! Since these are for supporting the top, I used wood glue and my 16 gauge nailer with 2″ nails. The 2x3s will come out from the sides of your legs and connect to the top support pieces. The 2x6s go above the pipe- from the inside of your legs, connecting to the long center support.
Time for all those 1″x3″ boards with 45 degree miter cuts, like you just did for the supports. It’s best to measure and cut as you go here, due to the varying thickness of this old wood. It worked best for me to cut one end at 45, then mark where I needed to cut again with a pencil. We are going to trim around the legs.
Keep measuring and cutting as you go, until you’ve trimmed all the way around the legs. Again, it’s best to stain before attaching, so just dry fit for now. Once I had all those cut, I stained these with Dark Walnut as well.
Once dry, I attached them with my 18 gauge Brad Nailer and 1 1/4″ nails.
That’s it for the base!! Now it’s time to attach the top! Add wood glue to the top support “I” section of the base, and set your tabletop on it. Center everything and from the underside- screw up through the support “I” section, into the table top with 2 1/2″ deck screws. It helps to have someone pushing down from the top to hold everything together.
And that’s it! I love these tables so much!! I’d love to see your version, too!!
Here is a 12 foot version I made for one of our hunting clients- Love how this one turned out, too! 
Thanks again for stopping by! Let me know if you have any questions below, and have a great day!!
